'In pond filters'

Just a question about individual taste in smaller ponds and filters. I get impression that many ponders use those pond filters that have bags over them and they sit in the pond where the fish and plants are. Isn't that a lot of trouble in the long run? The unit itself has to be lifted out and rinsed off and cleaned to some extent, and then lifted back down into the pond.

In the pre-planning stages of designing a somewhat easy to maintain filtration system fro my pond, looked at a variety of different types of filters for ponds. In my pond I didn't want to see any cords, tubes, or pipes running back forth to unsightly containers and the such. So what I came up with is a 10 gallon container next to my pond that is plumbed into the side of my pond. Water gravity flows from the pond, and into the 10 gallon reservor maintaining a constant water level in the pond. In that reservor at the port where the water flows in from the pond is a DIY pre-filter made from a rectangle shaped two gallon kitty litter bucket with most of the bottom cut out. In the bottum of that bucket is course filter medium that is cut to shape and fits snug to the bottum of the pre-filter bucket. Just below that is a 700 GPH water pump that pumps the water form the reservor up to the 27 gallon DIY boi-filter. The incoming water flowing into the boi-filter goes in to a half inch PVC pipe that has approx. 30 one eight of an inch diameter holes which allows the water to shower down into four different layers of filter medium. Under the bottum and finest filter medium is multitude of three inch black PVC pipe cut into three inch sections serving as boi-balls. At the base of the boi-filter container is a three inch diameter port for the water to return to the pond. Thus having clean and clear pond water making a healthy enviroment for my shubunkins.

The only porblem I'm trying to fix is that the 27 gallon boi-filter sitting out in the open behind the water fall. At this point I have bamboo planted in pots stacked around the container.

When I change my pre-filter which weighs less than a pound, it only takes a few minutes to rinse it off and return it to the reservor.

Happy ponding.

Sounds like you are on the right track and having the same struggles as the rest of us. My skimmer/filter is under a boardwalk beside my porch and we rocked up the sides of the Skippy. It looks like a huge planter. I didn't know what else to do with it as it is sitting on the ground and I didn't want to berm it. We all know it isn't natural anyway.]

As you said, a lot of people do put their pump on the bottom of the pond but it can be a big mistake. If there is a break somewhere the water could be all pumped out of the pond. I've read more than one account of this happening. Next thing----I have a shutoff valve in my filter/skimmer box so if it runs dry for whatever reason, and I've had at least 3 close calls and my pump and pond were saved by the shutoff. On the other hand, I would also like an automatic refiller doodad too. We used to have them on the farm for the cows. When the water level got down, more water came into their drinking places. But I've got to get hubby to run a water pipe over there as I don't want a hose running across the sidewalk.

My pond is not Giant but not small. It is 5 1/2 feet deep and 17x 12 roughly.. I often think that I wish I had put in a bottom drain. I often think I am happy I didn't. I have 3 submersibles NEAR the bottom. I also run 2 aerators on the bottom. If I had a leak my pond I would not lose all of its water but pretty close. My 3 pumps lead to their own 55 gallon sand and gravel filter I built. These flow out to a small staging pond area before flowing over the 2 falls.

If I had put the bottom drain in and it got clogged I would have to scuba dive. With the current set-up I can lift and clean. Takes about 3 minutes each.

I would really love to find a more economic system to turn the water over and utilize these filters. I think that will lead me to an exterior pump. This in turn will make it so I will have to go diving if the intake gets clogged. Personally I would like for my intake to be near the bottom rather than the top of the pond. Might be wrong but feel it helps turn the entire pond over with no slack spots.

That's why I spent the time to install a connected reservor that is the same water level as my pond. My submersible water pump is in that reservor and out of sight, and is hidden by a fake plastic rock. What I wanted was to NOT see hoses and wires running into and out of my pond like you see in so many DIY pond pictures. It's hard enough to make a small pre-formed pond like mine look somewhat natural when there are hoses and wires in view. In addition, when I have to clean or mess with my pump or any part of the filtration system, I don't have to be concerned about disturbing the fish in the pond. If I had the money and the space to build a large pond like I would really like to have, I would want to design it so that it would be hard to find any signs of any plumbing or filtration.

Happy ponding,

Anybody have pictures?

Due to the size of my small 365 gallon pond, there isn't much more I could do to inprove my DIY filter system. At this point all I need to be concerned with is regular rinsing of my pre-filter (simular to a sump basket), and periodic water changes.

When I do my water changes I use a 400 GPH submersable water pump, and pump from the pond after I turn off the whole system at the breaker in my garage. I drain about 1/3 of the water, and then add more water using a garden hore, and a recommended de-chlorinater.

Happy ponding,

My pond, at about 2300 gallons, doesn't receive a water change except when I partially empty the 150 skippy filter which I may do once or twice a year. When I first built the pond 12 years ago I used to add Amquell when topping off an inch or two but now I no longer do anything to the water and the amount of chlorinated/chloramine water added to the pond apparently isn't enough to affect the health of the fish. ....at least no one has complained to date...

Hi Mickey,

There's a guy here in town (Tacoma, WA) that owns 'Oak Tree Ponds'. He's been in business here for many years here and seems to really know his stuff. I stopped by to talk to the guy awhile back and the subject of partial water changes came up. He has several really large ponds full of large koi and he never does any water changes unless he has to break down a pond for repairs or rebuild. He has some of the bulkiest and combersome looking DIY bio-filters and filtration systems I have ever seen, but the water in his ponds are clear and stable.

My pond is small enough for me to do some partial water changes, but last summer I only did two 30% water changes that I can recall. I did one early this spring, and I think I will leave it at that for this year.

Happy ponding,

Is it possible that his pond has enough fresh water put in by natural rain to do the trick? Mine has a leak so I don't have to do them. It leaks enough that we have to add atleast an inch or two every other day. But when much smaller ponds don't leak, just evaporate, wouldn't the condensation of the water leave a higher concentrate of yuck each time? So isn't that the reason for pumping some out every so often?

You know all that good bacteria every talks about in their filters? Well alot of people do not know that that same "good bacteria" is on every surface of everything on their pond. The filter system itself is simply a resistance factor that strains and holds particles as it passes by for a recirculation of added oxygen.

Its like making a fine bourbon/vodka while distilling. All the stuff is in the base. The filter simply purifies it.

The filter needs to be clean to work correctly. (meaning only the filtering aspect) Otherwise it would channel, this means create a path of least resistance and not take advantage of your whole surface of filtration area and in turn decrease your flow and lower the turn over rate. If you washed your filter with bleach everytime you would get the same filtration. The added bonus of the bacteria helps eat the bad as it passes. The same bacteria is on your stones, walls, plant roots, submersible pump and, well... everything that touches the water. Good bacteria has not been trained to only go to your filter. The greater surface area of filter material means the greater area of filtration.

Some smaller filters do a much better job of filtration than some larger filters. All is gauged by flow and surface area that the flow touches. The more surface area that can obstruct and contain waste the better.

People are big about their filters and bacteria combined because it is just that much more surface area for bacteria to grow.

Unless you are having a problem with your water you should not need to do a water change. Everytime you add new, un-bacteria laced water your pond is semi starting over. Semi being the percentage that you feel you changed. Alot of people swear by a 10% water change fixes their algea bloom problem. Actually what normally happens is the plants in their pond are growing while they are making these changes. Lily pads start covering, marginals start shading more and more as they get taller. Carpet algea on the side of their ponds start eating more. Leaves on trees 30 feet from the pond come in and shade more and more and the bacteria that you have been trying to kill by accident all of the pond takes over and establishes itself as a full on biological funtioning system. Whaalaa those 10% water changes did the trick.

Actually they probably slowed down the growth rate of everything mentioned above except the tree 30' from the pond.

I am by no means an expert and I hope that you research this more before listening to me. It has been working for me.

I clean my filters with air and backflush only. I try to time this with an upcoming storm. I am doing a water change in this way. It is not 10% on a schedule. This way it would be happening anyway and I would not be fighting nature.

Tell me if I am wrong. I am no chemist and am not saying this is exactly the way it should be.

OK, what about the bad stuff that will not filter out like ammonia. So when there is evaporation, the content of ammonia is greater than before. So we keep adding water and leave the ammonia or whatever else is in the water we can't see and yes dilutes it but wouldn't it work better to pull some ammonia out with water changes or in my case a leak, LOL, than leave it there???

Esther. You should clean out the debris from the bottom of the pond. Your ammonia should not spike if your pond bottom is clear. If it does spike and your pond is free from debris then feeding should be lessened. A scheduled frequency of water change will not affect the water quality as far as good bacteria goes.

Your amonia spike will not kill the bacteria. Your water changes will affect the bacteria.

Time when and how much declor to add to make sure your fish stay alive. Now imagine how long it takes the bacteria to reload. I bet you were not fast enough to not kill the good bacteria.

Again This is a hopethesis. I have no degree in this.

It is working for me however.

I will go after your ammonia question again with another twist.

If by chance you lost control of your pond and were not able to maintain it to where breakdown was occuring and an ammonia spike occured. I feel it is in the best interest of you pond to do a water change at that time. Not a schedule but a get in a clean it out then not touch it again style. Might do a 40% change. Use the declor. Keep in mind that you have gotten dirty and got the gunk out. But it is a one time thing if the pond got out of control for some reason. Your bacteria is growing to and it is your best friend.

I wasn't worrying about bacteria. I was just saying that if you never did a water change, wouldn't the content of the water end up with a high ammonia content? What gets rid of it? Oh and I'm on a well with excellent water. My pond is small enough that it is easy to scoop the bottom frequently because I have the time. I have a skimmer/filter and a 100 gallon Skippy. I have no problems with anything other than a leak. Don't care to go after it I guess. It has to be somewhere it is pretty hard to find as we have shut this and that off from time to time trying to narrow it down. Oh well.

Esther wrote:OK, what about the bad stuff that will not filter out like ammonia. So when there is evaporation, the content of ammonia is greater than before. So we keep adding water and leave the ammonia or whatever else is in the water we can't see and yes dilutes it but wouldn't it work better to pull some ammonia out with water changes or in my case a leak, LOL, than leave it there???

I think I understand just enough to be dangerous. I don't think I can really answer your question, but my thought is right along with the regular water changes. If a pond is constructed so that it has adequate filtration, fish and a good balance of plant life. How do you know when you have finally created that fine balance that makes a pond somewhat self sustaining along with that balance we are all aiming for? Trial and error I guess. When I first set up my pond, it took me quite some time to get to that point where I didn't have to check my pond everyday just to see what has gone wrong now. Thanks to many that gave good sound advice at forums like this one that really got me off on the right foot.

Happy ponding,

Now on the other hand. The owner of Oaktree Ponds here in Tacoma, WA doesn't do water changes in any of his large ponds. Not sure what he does about amonia levels or anything else. All of his pond water looks like watered down coffee, but he says all of his koi are healthy.

Happy ponding,

I think that some of our problems come from having small ponds. Mine is only 10' x 13' x 24-30" so is very unnatural to have that many fish in that small of a pond, compared to a very large pond or natural lake.

I don't have any problem with my pond and really never did. But I've also struggled with an inground swimming pool for 40 years which is handled a little different seeing I can just dump in Chlorine and soda. But at least I had some understanding of what I was up against trying to keep water clear. It was just interesting trying to achieve clear water in the pond without chemicals. LOL

Esther, I would imagine that maintaining a healthy pond is somewhat the same as an aquarium. Maybe I'm wrong, but years ago started a ten gallon salt water aquarium and found rather quickly I needed to upgrade to at least a fifty gallon salt water aquarium. Amonia, Ph, and everything in the smaller salt water aquarium went out control quick. The fifty gallon was more stable and didn't go out of balance quickly like the smaller did.

I can't help but to wonder if maintaining a larger pond wouldn't be the same way. My pond is only 365 gallons with a bio-filter that holds approximately 25 gallons of water. I'm sure the likely hood of my smaller pond could become unstable quicker than a big pond. I have been quiet fortunate that the water quality in my pond seems to have stayed rather stable. I believe that to be due to a adequate filter, plants, and the right amount of fish & snails.

Happy ponding,

Esther wrote:OK, what about the bad stuff that will not filter out like ammonia. So when there is evaporation, the content of ammonia is greater than before. So we keep adding water and leave the ammonia or whatever else is in the water we can't see and yes dilutes it but wouldn't it work better to pull some ammonia out with water changes or in my case a leak, LOL, than leave it there???

Esther-
It is my understanding that beneficial bacteria in biofilters convert ammonia to nitrates, nitrates are used by plants.

I'm getting ready to put my pond in and will use two 55 gallon filters with gravel and sand that I can backwash. However, I will add a T in the plumbing in case I need more filtration later. I plan on putting in a bottom drain with a settlement chamber or a "knock out pot" as we called them in the refinery. The chamber will be the same level as the water level with a bottom drain in it as well. I will configure the suction of the pump so that I can block the filters temporarily and drain the gunk out of the settlement chamber into the flower beds.